Project Details
Project Description

I started surfing when I was sixteen. Sometimes I tell people it was when I was six or seven years old, but that’s bull. My old man used to drive me to the ocean, to a really small fishing town along Washington’s southwest coast. It was there I would wear my first wetsuit and play in the whitewater atop a surfboard that had seen better days. It wasn’t until I was able to drive myself that I truly started surfing. And so at sixteen, after I had acquired my driver’s license and a clapped out 80’s Suburban, I drove west on my own, searching for surf for the first time in the often fickle, always interesting Pacific Northwest.